RV Garage Floor Plans With Workshops, Lofts, and Pull-Through Bays

An RV garage offers many benefits such as protection from the weather, avoiding storage rental fees, a place to do maintenance, loading and unloading in privacy and security to name a few. When it comes to choosing a size the door height alone changes everything. You’ll find that most standard garage plans top out around 8 feet, which is nowhere close to what a Class A coach needs to fit. These five RV garage floor plans are drawn so that each of them uses a 14-foot wide by 14-foot tall roll-up door, and every one of them offers room to walk around. The differences between them comes down to design preferences such as a workshop and a bathroom, room for parking additional cars in the same building and extra side storage for all of your essential items. You’ll find plans that run from a 20′ x 50′ single bay up to a 42′ x 48′ build that can contain an RV and two cars. Dimensions are labeled on each drawing, so you can compare them up against your lot and your setback rules before you talk with a builder.

Single RV Garage with Side Storage

The smallest garage shown offers a full workbench wall with tool storage and a bench with a 36-inch walk-around aisle.

Layout

At 20′ x 50′ this is the plan for people who want their RV covered without building a second house in the backyard. The RV bay itself spans 16′ x 46′ with a 16-foot interior ceiling height. This gives you clearance for a roof AC unit, a raised antenna, and the occasional need to get up on top of the rig for maintenance. The 14′ x 14′ roll-up door sits at the front, and the bay is deep enough that a 23-foot travel trailer or a mid-length coach parks with extra room to spare.

What makes this one work for daily use is the 4-foot deep bank of storage with a workbench along the back wall. You get tool storage on one side, an 8-foot counter and bench with a pegboard wall in the middle, and more storage on the other end. There’s two 32-inch pedestrian doors on the left and right walls so you’re not needing to open the big door every time you need to grab something. The trade-off is the width, since the twenty feet total leaves about 36 inches on one side of the rig. It’s enough to walk and enough to open a bay door on the coach, but it isn’t enough to swing a slide-out. In the case that your RV has slides, look at the wider plans listed below.

Dimensions

• Overall building: 20′ x 50′
• RV bay: 16′ x 46′
• Interior ceiling height: 16′
• Overhead door: 14′ wide x 14′ high, roll-up
• Rear work wall: 4′ deep (48″)
• Counter/bench section: 8′ wide
• Side clearance at rig: 36″
• Pedestrian doors: 32″ (two, opposite walls)

Design Tips

• Put the pegboard to work with hooks and attachments before the shelves fill up. A 16-foot ceiling tempts you with the space to stack bins to the rafters, and then everything you need is hard to reach, 12 feet up. Keep the heavy, frequently used gear at counter level and save the high shelves for all of your seasonal stuff.
• Install adequate lighting since it matters more in a narrow bay than a wider one. The RV blocks light from one side no matter what, so run LED strips down both side walls at about 8 feet instead of relying on ceiling fixtures to avoid shadows.
• Set the front pedestrian door to be the one you use daily. This way you’re not constantly opening a 14-foot roll-up door every time you need something.

Pull-Through RV Garage

With two doors, there’s no need for backing up, which is worth it, rather than trying to constantly having to reverse a 40-foot coach in or out of a narrow bay.

Layout

This 18′ x 55′ garage plan puts a 14′ x 14′ roll-up door at both ends of the building so you can drive straight through rather than need to back out. You drive in one side and out the other which is ideal if your lot has a circular drive or road access on two sides. Normally, backing a long rig with a tow car behind it is genuinely difficult. This plan removes the problem and makes it easier to operate.

The RV bay runs through the entire 18′ x 55′, so there’s a good amount of depth here. Fifty-five feet handles a long coach plus a hitch, plus space at the nose for a generator or a small workbench. Your storage area is tucked along the right wall in two runs, 21 feet at the front and 21 feet at the back, with a 13-foot gap in the middle where a 32-inch pedestrian door comes in. That gap helps to keep the main entry clear instead of forcing you to squeeze past shelving.

The only catch is the footprint at fifty-five feet of length needs a deep lot. In addition the two overhead doors means two door openings to insulate, seal, and maintain. You’re also giving up a solid end wall, which is usually where people hang the biggest storage system or keep their workbench or other hanging items.

Dimensions

• Overall building: 18′ x 55′
• RV bay: 18′ x 55′
• Overhead doors: 14′ wide x 14′ high, roll-up (front and rear)
• Storage runs: 21′ front, 21′ rear along one side
• Center clear zone: 13′
• Pedestrian door: 32″

Design Tips

• Slope the slab slightly toward the doors, and put a floor drain in if your climate allows it. A pull-through garage sees more water tracked in than a single-door bay.
• The 13-foot center section is prime real estate. Use it for the stuff you grab constantly, like leveling blocks, chocks, and the water hose. Everything else can live in the 21-foot runs on one side.
• If you can, orient the building so the prevailing wind hits the side wall rather than either door. This way the two large doors won’t turn the garage into a tunnel every time you open both sides.

Oversized RV Garage with Loft Storage

This one has the same footprint as a big garage, with twice the storage, because it builds upward instead of outward.

Layout

The 24′ x 52′ exterior shell gives you an 18′ x 48′ RV bay with a 14′ x 14′ roll-up door, plus a loft that runs 24 feet wide across the front section of the building. That loft is roughly 10.9′ x 16′ of usable deck, reached by a switchback stair tucked into the corner so it doesn’t eat into your available parking area. It’s the smart move on a lot where you can’t spread out but you can go up.

Twenty-four feet of width leaves you about 6 feet of clear space beside the rig once the RV bay is accounted for, which is enough for slide-outs, enough to open every storage bay on the coach at once, and enough to set up a folding table while you’re loading. Compare that to the 36 inches in the single-bay plan and you’ll feel the difference right away.

The loft is also where you have a lot of flexibility, but also need to make some considerations. Anything you put up there has to go up stairs, so it’s best for storage such as boxed, seasonal, and light items rather than the table saw. And if you enclose the loft later, plan the HVAC before you frame it, as heat collects up there fast under a metal roof.

Dimensions

• Overall building: 24′ x 52′
• RV bay: 18′ x 48′
• Loft deck: approximately 10.9′ x 16′
• Loft section width: 24′
• Front offset to loft area: 4′
• Overhead door: 14′ wide x 14′ high, roll-up
• Stair run: 10.9′

Design Tips

• Frame the loft floor for real load, not just to minimum code for safety. People always end up storing more up there than they planned, and 40 pounds per square foot adds up fast once you add a few hundred pounds of holiday bins and spare auto parts.
• Add a pulley or a small hoist at the loft edge. This way, carrying awkward boxes up a switchback stair won’t break your back, and a $60 hoist solves it permanently.
• Leave the area directly under the loft open rather than walling it in. It will feel more like a natural covered zone for a workbench, auto repair or a second fridge, and it keeps the main bay feeling wide.

RV Garage with Workshop and Bathroom

This is the plan for people who plan to spend real time in the building, instead of just parking in it.

Layout

At 30′ x 50′, this layout runs an 18′ x 44′ RV bay down the left side and stacks four separate zones along the right. You get an 8-foot storage room, an 8-foot bathroom, a 16-foot workshop, and a 12-foot bank of cabinets. The 6-foot utility zone sits between the RV bay and those rooms, which is a detail that makes it all work much better together You get a dedicated corridor for the electrical panel, water heater, air compressor, and shop vac instead of cramming them behind the rig.

There’s also a 4-foot walkway across the front of the bay. This gives you a dedicated walk-through at the nose of the RV so you can get from the pedestrian door to the workshop without turning sideways and having to awkwardly shuffling past the bumper.

The bathroom is the feature that most RV garage owners say they wish they’d added. Having a bathroom in the garage saves the trip back to the house when you’re mid-project, and it lets you clean up before you go inside. Adding it costs plumbing you’d otherwise skip, so run the lines during the slab pour. Retrofitting drain lines later on into finished concrete is expensive and annoying.

Dimensions

• Overall building: 30′ x 50′
• RV bay: 18′ x 44′
• Utility zone: 6′ wide
• Room block: 6′ deep (storage, bath, workshop, cabinets)
• Storage room: 8′
• Bathroom: 8′
• Workshop: 16′
• Cabinet run: 12′
• Front walkway: 4′
• Overhead door: 14′ wide x 14′ high, roll-up

Design Tips

• Insulate and separately heat the workshop. It’s a 16-foot room with a door, so thinking of it as its own conditioned space is best. Heating the entire 30′ x 50′ volume to work on a project in January is not affordable or effective.
• Put a utility sink in the bathroom, not just a toilet and a small basin. This really helps when you’ve been working with greasy hands, or paint brushes and want to avoid using the kitchen sink.
• Run more circuits into the utility zone than you think you need. RV shore power, a compressor, a welder, and a battery charger all want their own dedicated line, and adding conduit later means opening a wall you just finished.

RV Garage Plus Two-Car Garage

One building, for three vehicles, and no more shuffling cars around the driveway every time you want to take the RV out.

Layout

This 42′ x 48′ plan splits into two bays with a shared center wall. The left side is an 18′ x 48′ RV bay behind a 14′ x 14′ roll-up door, and the right side is a 24-foot wide two-car garage with an 18′ x 8′ overhead door and a full-width storage shelf across the back. Each car gets a 9′ x 20′ parking space, which is rather comfortable instead of the 8-foot squeeze you find in a lot of tract-home garages.

The reason to build this instead of two separate structures is simple, you use one slab, one roof, one set of permits, and a shared wall. It’s much cheaper per square foot than building an RV garage next to an existing two-car garage. It also looks like one intentional building instead of an outbuilding that was thrown together later.

The width is the constraint, as you’ll find that forty-two feet across is a lot of frontage, and plenty of lots won’t fit it with setbacks applied. Measure carefully before falling in love with this one. It’s also worth deciding early whether you want a pass-through door in the center wall. Being able to walk from the car bay into the RV bay without going outside is a minor upgrade that you’ll most likely use every day.

Dimensions

• Overall building: 42′ x 48′
• RV bay: 18′ x 48′
• Two-car bay: 24′ x 48′
• Car parking spaces: 9′ x 20′ each (2.74m x 6.1m)
• RV overhead door: 14′ wide x 14′ high, roll-up
• Car overhead door: 18′ wide x 8′ high, roll-up
• Rear storage shelf: full width of the car bay

Design Tips

• Keep the center wall solid to the roof if you can. This gives you the easiest fire separation you’ll ever build, and it also keeps exhaust and fumes from the RV bay out of the space where the cars are parked.
• The rear storage run in the car bay works best as closed cabinets rather than with open shelving. Car bays get dusty, and open shelves turn into a display of everything you own that can make things look disorganized.
• If the RV bay ceiling goes to 14 feet or more, don’t match it on the car side. Dropping the car bay ceiling to a normal height gives you additional attic storage above it and cuts the volume you’re heating.

RV Types and Garage Dimensions Needed

Every plan on this page starts from the same question: what are you parking in it? A camper van and a diesel pusher do not have the same building problem. One clears a 12-foot door with room to spare, while the other needs 16 feet and a lot more concrete and budget. Match your rig to a row below. The last column explains what you’re buying with the extra footage, because the bay sizes here are bigger than the bare minimum on purpose.

RV Type	Rig Size L / W / H	Bay to Build W x D	Door Opening W x H
Camper Van Class B. Winnebago Travato, Winnebago Revel, Airstream Interstate	19′ to 24′ 6’9″ to 7’6″ 9’4″ to 10’6″	12′ x 28′	10′ x 12′
Cab-Over Motorhome Class C. Winnebago View, Thor Chateau, Thor Four Winds, Jayco Redhawk	22′ to 33′ 8′ to 8’6″ 11′ to 11’6″	14′ x 38′	12′ x 13′
Travel Trailer Bumper pull. Jayco Jay Flight, Airstream Classic, Forest River Rockwood	21′ to 40′ 8′ to 8’6″ 10′ to 11’6″	14′ x 46′	12′ x 13′
Gas Motorhome Class A. Winnebago Forza, Winnebago Adventurer, Thor Palazzo	26′ to 37′ 8’6″ 11’11” to 12’9″	16′ x 44′	14′ x 14′
Fifth Wheel Gooseneck. Grand Design Solitude, Keystone Montana, Jayco North Point	30′ to 43′ 8’5″ 13′ to 13’5″	16′ x 50′	14′ x 15′
Diesel Pusher Class A. Newmar Dutch Star, Tiffin Allegro Bus, Winnebago Horizon	36′ to 45′ 8’6″ 12’10” to 13’5″	18′ x 52′	14′ x 16′

Heights include a rooftop air conditioner. Bay and door sizes are sized for daily use rather than the tightest possible fit, so check your own spec sheet before finalizing a plan.

The Dimensions to Confirm Before You Commit

Your true roof height. Factory specs assume a stock roof. Adding solar panels, a satellite dome, or a second AC unit push you past the initial cost you may have considered. Park level, run a tape from the pavement to the highest point, and add six inches for the door track.

Your towing length. The hitch, bike rack, ladder, and a spare tire all sit past the bumper. Build to what actually rolls down the road, not what the manufacturers sales sheet says.

Your slide-out reach. Most slides extend 24 to 36 inches. If you want to open them with the building closed up, add that to each side and pick a wider plan to accommodate the difference.

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